Nellie Chronicles Part 17

"I Plan My Escape From the Sailing Life"

Transcribed for Nellie by the Old One

As most of you know I am not overly fond of passages.  I don’t care for seafood, and I detest the sanitation situation aboard this vessel.  In fact, truth be known, I am not all that happy with boat life.  In consequence of these considerations I have begun to devise a scheme that may allow me to return immediately to my native northwest roots.

The Old One is making plans to head out.  I have heard him on the phone and I have watched him begin to organize his bags.  It is definite, within a few days he is out of here and I have to say I will be a little sorry to see him go.  We are nearly on friendly terms.  I have worked hard to train him and it has paid off.

So kind reader, I ask you, would it be wrong of me to take advantage of his kindness and my hard work.  I think not, and that is why I have come up with a scheme to escape my incarceration on this vessel.

He has a large roll on bag.  He brought a ton of gear down here for Mom and Dad so he’s going back light.  If I can find a way to stash some kibbles in there and hide myself amongst the debris, I could be home in a few days.  I’d have to dodge the customs the customs man of course, but I think it’s doable.  Hmmmm… there are many obstacles but there are also many possibilities.

Hi, I’m back, the others are ashore and I took the opportunity to explore the Old Ones luggage.  He’s a bit simple, closing his door to keep me out of his room, but leaving the cat door, aka porthole, open right from the cockpit to his bunk.

Anyway there’s plenty of room in that big bag of his and I’ve already stashed two days worth of kibbles under his salty old clothes.  I’m ready!  Another day or two and I’m out of here.

He’s really gotten sweet on me, so even if I get caught going through the border I’m sure he’ll bail me out.

My plan is to stowaway back to Port Townsend and then make my way to Aunt Susie’s house.  I’m sure she’ll take me in.  She’s always had a thing for me.

Well everyone wish me luck this will be quite a scam if I can pull it off.  

JJ - Our Rastafarian Host

Written by, Michael Daubenberger

We headed from our anchorage in Atwood Harbor to Chesters Settlement in search of cold beer, Internet, phone service, and possibly some groceries.  The trip in consisted of a 1.5 mile dingy ride in the wind and waves and a 2 mile hike down a dirt road under the scorching sun.  It goes without saying, the cold beer was number one on the list. 

We arrived at Chesters and found it deserted.  As best I could tell, there were only two people living there.  We met the first as we strolled into town.  His responses to our questions were, this is Chesters, the bar is across the street but its closed, and you can keep on walking but you won’t find anything.  As you can guess our questions were where is Chesters, the bar, and is there anywhere to get Internet.  (Note: The settlements on Aklins Island were devastated by hurricane Irene last summer and have not yet fully recovered).  We kept on walking. 

The second person we met was JJ, a Rastafarian Bahamian driving a compact car.  He was not out just cruising the strip.  He had seen us pass by his house so he jumped in the car to give his new guests the royal tour.  We piled in like a snoop dog video.  The crew now included Myself, Sara, my Dad, our friends Max and Laura, and our host JJ. 

Down the road we went to the settlement of Lovely Bay with sparks flying off the muffler.  First stop, the bar.  CLOSED.  Next stop, the neighbor across the street to see if she had a stash of beers for their guests.  No luck.  We went down to the boat launch for a few phone calls and finally back to the closed bar.  Here a pair of locals met us and in ten minutes the fill-in bartender arrived to open the doors. 

The fill-in bartender was the brother of the bar owner and a construction worker by trade.  Within ten minutes, half of the town was down at the bar having drinks and sharing stories.  It was quite the welcoming.   When we were ready to go JJ drove us back to the harbor and we made plans to meet up at the boat the next morning and tentative plans to give him a ride to Samana Cay 20 miles to the north. 

JJ arrived right on schedule through a cloud of spray.  From our vantage point, it looked like his 16 foot Carolina skiff would tip right over backwards as he launched off the waves.  When he pulled up to the boat we asked him about the trip and in typical JJ fashion he responded “ya mon, it’s all good mon”. 

He had a positive response to most questions even when a positive response was not what you were hoping for.  Like when we questioned him if the huge grouper he had shot was big enough that it might be a candidate for ciguatera fish poisoning.  His response with a big grin, “ya mon dats a big grouper mon!”  Our hope was that he didn’t understand the question.  JJ’s enthusiasm extended towards most everything, but particularly to our friends boat, Twilight, a 40-foot trawler and his ride to Samana Cay.   Ya mon, dat’s a nice boat!!  He was delighted with it’s size and potential carrying capacity.  Plans for the trip to Samana were solidified over lunch.  Max and Laura would be taking JJ and towing his boat.

After lunch it was off to collect conch and lobster with JJ as our guide.  First stop conch.  JJ took us to the exact spot we had searched for conch the previous day to no avail.  His response to our ineffectiveness, “you lookin but you ain’t seein”.  He was right!! We got out of the boat in 18 inches of water and JJ would announce there’s a conch right there in front of you.  We collected 24 conch in about ten minutes.

Next up lobster.  The day before we had gone out to the outer reefs in search of lobster and were shut out.  JJ’s response to our futile search, “you lookin where you think they is, not where they is.”  Again he was right.  JJ took us into the harbor, not more than a 100 yards from our boat and pronounced, “jump in and get me two tails out of that hole.”  The hole was in 4 feet of water and we did just that.

The next day we left to Samana Cay.  Max and Laura followed the day after.  (A little background on Samana Cay, the only population is a group of about 10 transient workers that harvest cascarilla bark used in the production of Campari and cosmetics.  There are no stores or establishments.  The harbor entrance is treacherous.  Our cruising guide states “Venturing ashore without local knowledge can be treacherous.  We advise against including Samana as a port-of-call). 

As we sailed north our friends began to grasp the magnitude of their trip carrying supplies.  JJ showed up early with his skiff weighed down under a fridge, a generator, 100 gallons of gas and more.  This was unloaded and JJ announced that he would go back for another load.   Load number two consisted of a couple dozen cases of beer, bags of vegetables, dried goods, and water.  JJ was either bringing provisions for everyone on Samana Cay or to start up a bar and grill.  We are still not sure which. 

JJ arrived the day of departure with a final load.  All told it was about a ton and a half of supplies.  The trip up was one of the nastiest Twilight (Max and Laura’s boat) had seen with a steep 8 foot beam sea.  Unfazed was JJ who sat up on the flybridge the whole trip smoking as only a Rastafarian can.  As the boat rolled Max was sure he would see the Rastafarian go flying over the side.  Adding to the anxiety was the presence of the US Coast Guard.  Max again was certain that upon seeing an old trawler loaded down with burlap sacks full of goods, a Rastafarian, and two 26 year olds, they wouldn’t even ask questions, they’d just take the boat and lock them up. 

JJ’s response to the coast guard, “don’t worry about them mon, if they get you on the radio you tell them not to worry, jus pass on by.”  By the time Max and Laura arrived, they were ready for a drink.  JJ packed up his supplies and took them ashore.  Our friends took a sigh of relief.  The trip payed big dividends and we were treated like family on the island.                                        

Nellie Chronicles Part 16

“The Old One Returns”

Transcribed for Nellie by Daubie the older

Well a lot has happened since my scribe last documented events.  We have done quite a lot of sailing and none of it very comfortable I might add.

I guess I confessed during my last episode that I have been “making up” with the old one.  It started with some innocent petting.  He is also somewhat nocturnal and I have had fun playing the dodger game with him.  I found that he would play longer with me if I didn’t bite him so hard.  This activity led to the petting, but I have stopped well short of purring.  A girl has her limits.

The other good thing he does is feed me.  He always notices when I am lying on the floor staring at my bowl and he seems to know that it means something.  He’s been pretty attentive to my needs and I guess I’ve been appreciating it.

So yesterday we took off from Samana Cay.  I have to tell you, that place isn’t even on the map.  Mom and Dad didn’t even take me ashore there and I’m pretty sure it’s because the locals will eat whatever comes their way.  This one Rastifarian guy kept coming by the boat and I’m pretty sure he thought I’d be good “Souse”, that’s a kind of Bahamian stew. 

Samana Cay

So anyway, as I was saying, we took off from Samana Cay and all the humans seemed a little tense which always puts me on edge, plus they kept shoving me down below so I was sure something was up.  The next thing I know we’re flying through the air on some giant combers that are breaking on the reefs all around us.  We’re going through a tiny channel and my people are shouting, “ ‘dog leg’ left, ‘dog leg’ right.”  Now not only do I have to worry about breaking waves and getting washed overboard and drowned or castaway on a beach where they turn kitties into “souse”, but it seems like there’s a pack of dogs out there that my people keep dodging.  I was freaked.

Anyway about sunset we’re still out there climbing watery mountains and surfing down the other side, but I figure it will be over pretty soon cause we always stop at the end of the day and drop the anchor.

Well not this time!  They just forgot to pull over and now it’s dark.  They don’t want me outside and everything in the damn boat is moving around.  Finally the old one comes down below, fills my bowl and lies down on the big bed in the living room.  I like it when they make up the big bed cause I can go underneath it and hang out without being disturbed and attack people’s feet.  So as I was saying, the old one crashed out on the big bed and since I was feeling a little scared and lonely, what with being cooped up all day, I jumped up on the bed and curled up with him.  It was pretty nice he made a little space for me and petted me and I let him.

A little later he went outside and Mom and Dad came below and it went on like that all night.  So I just cozied up with whoever was in the big bed.

But I was a little stressed over when it would all end.  Finally about 0900 they dropped that anchor thing on the front of the boat, pardon me the bow and here we are at “Cat Island”.  Now that’s got a promising ring to it.  I think I’m going to like this place.

Out Island Adventures

The gang on the Adventure Tender at Crooked Island

We set sail with our buddies Max and Laura on Twilight to cover some ground through the ‘Out Islands’, in search of adventure and high hopes of catching some Big Fish along the way.  

Out island beaches

Our route started when we met in the Jumentos continued on to Georgetown and then from there we headed on to Long Island, Conception Island, Rum Cay, back to Long Island, Crooked Island, Acklins Island and Samana Cay.  We covered hundreds of miles, caught many fish and feasted on elaborate dinners in the six weeks we traveled together.  You become friends quickly when you share meals, drinks and explore new destinations. 

Dinner aboard Twilight

In Clarence Town, Long Island, we rushed for shelter from bad weather coming our way and also picked up Mike’s dad, Daubie, at the airport several days later after our Long Island roadtrip excursion.  

Daubie on the Ukulele

Immediately after we set sail to Crooked Island as well as fixed the engine leak and tightened the keel bolts.  Using the tools and spare parts that Daubie brought with him to the Bahamas.  (Note: The engine is now fixed, no more diesel leaks, but we still try to sail as much as possible.  Mike and Daubie were able to tighten the keel bolts with the 1 ½ inch deep socket wrench and the boat is no longer leaking water into the bilge at an alarming rate!  Thank you Daubie.)

Coral

Yellowtail snapper

Coral

We arrived in Crooked Island, feeling like warriors of the sea, having caught a barracuda, an enormous sailfish and a 49” mahi mahi.  Mike was distraught about releasing the sailfish and not getting accurate measurements on it’s size, but his buddy Kevin reassured him that he can still get a replica made from the pictures to mount.  Where we are going to put this 6 ½ foot mounted fish, I am still unsure.

Willie at Gibson's #2 Restaurant at Landrail Point

At Crooked Island, we stopped at Landrail Point and went into town to meet Willie, the renowned Bahamian cook.  Hans’ had met Willie nearly eight years ago during his sailing travels and had worked for her at her restaurant (the one and only restaurant in Landrail Point – Gibson’s #2 Restaurant).

Dinghy'ing through the estuaries at French Well's

Bonefishing in the estuary's of French Wells.

French Well's estuary's (shallow waters - great for bonefishing)

French Wells

Laura wrestling a barracuda at French Wells

Next stop, French Wells, twelve miles south of Landrail Point.  The gang, Daubie, Max, Laura, Mike and I spent a couple days here exploring and doing the usual: snorkeling, fishing, dinging through estuary’s, cooking, and hanging out on the beach.  The beach was a gorgeous white sandy beach over three miles long, which made for great morning beach runs. 

Beach around the corner of Atwood Harbor

Atwood Harbor

Mike and Daubie on the beach at Atwood Harbor

From there, we all headed back to Landrail Point and then on to Atwood Harbor on the north end of Acklins Island.  This anchorage rates in the top 3 so far of all the harbors and beaches that we’ve been to.  It was over a mile long with perfect white sand and beautiful shells and snorkeling and fishing.   We stayed here for several days, enjoying our time. 

Enjoying the beach at Atwood - Laura & Max

Enjoying the beach at Atwood Harbor

Mike the salty sailor

Mike, Sara and Daubie at Atwood

After a couple days, we decided to try and hike into civilization on Acklins into Chester’s.  Here we met another great Bahamian, amiable, animated and boisterous, named JJ.  He picked us up on the side of the road and asked us if we were lost, then offered us a lift to the nearest bar.  Practically everyone in town seemed to show up, about 8.  We had a drink and then made plans with JJ to see him the next morning for lunch aboard Twilight. 

Hiking into Chester's

Aboard Twilight with our conch and lobster catch with JJ

Lionfish catch

Grouper catch

Cleaning conch at Atwood's Harbor

Max and Laura cleaning conch

The next day, JJ took us out on his 16-foot Carolina skiff and we managed to collect 24 conch in a mater of 15 minutes and then proceeded to dive for lobster practically 100 yards from our boat.  Here we’d been traveling great distances in the dinghies in search of lobster, only to find out they were right next door!  That afternoon we had quite the assembly line on the beach, cleaning all 12 conch that we kept.  That’s a lot of conch at one time for two boats, but Laura and I had grand plans of freezing many of them for later.  Daubie even roasted one over the open fire as they were being cleaned.

JJ on his 16-foot Carolina skiff

Hanging out with JJ on Samana Cay

JJ, Sharon and Zeek at Samana Cay

On to Samana Cay the next morning.  We didn’t leave anchorage until 10am and had to sail close-hauled up to the Cay (sailing close-hauled is sailing as close to the wind as possible, which is difficult in the ocean because of large swells and wind waves).  When we arrived, the east entrance appeared to be closed out by heavy surf and we were not willing to risk the boat, so we aborted that plan and headed to the west entrance.  It turned out not to be much better, but we bit the bullet and dodge the numerous coral heads through shallow waters and made it into the calm anchorage.  We were happy to have made it in and not be completely shut out and heading back south to Acklins that night.

Twilight's boat packed with JJ's supplies

Late the next morning, Twilight arrived with over a ton of gear and supplies that they carried up for JJ.  The people on the island had not had supplies brought in for a while.   When they go out to the Cay to collect cascarilla bark (the bark used to make Campari, medicines and cosmetics) they have to plan to be there for at least a month and pack accordingly.  It is a deserted island, except for the few people squatting on the land harvesting the bark.

JJ met up with us and again we reaped the benefits of the sea.  He speared a Nassau grouper for dinner, which was 25 pounds or more!  I didn’t even know you could spear fish that large!

We were invited to dinner at JJ’s shack and he prepared the meal: grouper fingers, lobster salad, crab rice, and coconut bread.  What a feast, he was quite the host.  We even had live entertainment that started out with a few jokes and turned into who could out do the other with the best joke.  JJ’s were hilarious and he’d repeat the punch line at least three times, laughing at them more and more.

One of the homes of the workers on Samana Cay

JJ's place on Samana Cay

JJ's kitchen on Samana Cay

Bad news, weather is not sounding good.  We listened to the Chris Parker weather report on our single side band radio and it sounds like a strong Norther is going to be heading our way in the next couple days.  Time to move on earlier than expected.  We studied the charts and couldn’t find any decent protection in the Out Islands, so we made the decision to head back north.  We say our goodbye’s to Twilight, and 25 straight hours later, Cat Island it is!

Max and Laura on the Adventure Tender (Twilight in the background)